Monday, February 24, 2014

GameTime Quicky #3 - Comparing M&T vs. BAB

Hello all,

The next quicky is up for GameTime on YouTube.  In this quicky I talk through a comparison between Muskets & Tomahawks and Brother Against Brother.  You can watch it here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uTiIVepcjTk or embedded below.

I've also included a written comparison below the video as well.


A quick update on GameTime episode 3 - it will post this week, if not in the next couple of days.  Parts one and two are all ready to upload, I'm just waiting to finish filming/editing part three.

A little more of a comparison of the two systems:

Dice System

M&T: D6 based.  Each die roll yields a result of 1-6.

BAB: D10 based.  A roll of "0" is actually "zero" and not 10 - so each die roll yields a result of 0-9.

Units & Formations

M&T:  Units range from 6-12 figures as stipulated in the army lists.  Army lists included are for British (F&I and AWI), French (F&I and AWI), German (AWI), American (AWI), Indian (F&I and AWI), and Civilian (F&I and AWI).  Each unit, it's options, traits, talents, etc. are use a point based system to create equivalent army lists.  Rules for a firing line provide benefits to regulars forming a single or double line with at least 6 figures.  All units can skirmish, however only certain units (most notably Indians and most irregulars) have a scout trait (ignore difficult terrain and obstacle movement penalties).  Officers are included by troop type and generally can only benefit troops of their own type (for example, a regular officer can provide benefits to any friendly regular unit).

BAB:  All units are 10 figures strong.  No army lists are included.  No points based system.  Officers are included based on the number of units in the army.  Generally one officer commands 2-3 units.

Turn Sequence

M&T:  Uses a deck of cards that provide actions for unit types (regulars, irregulars, Indians, artillery, etc.).  Most units get 4 actions per turn, however the order in which those actions come up is randomized by the order of the cards.  Actions include move, reload and shoot.

BAB:  Uses a deck of standard playing cards where each card is assigned to a specific unit in the army.  Two cards are resolved at a time (if conflicting in their actions, roll off to see who has initiative).  Actions include move, fire, load and charge.

Movement

M&T: Each figure has a fixed movement characteristic.  Each individual figure takes it's own movement and suffers terrain penalties/benefits individually.  Each unit has a unit leader and models in the same unit must remain within a single move of the unit leader.  Scouts ignore difficult terrain and obstacles (of man height or smaller), and treat very difficult terrain as difficult.

BAB:  Each unit moves 2D10 per turn (with some potential modifiers).  Only the unit leaders move and suffer terrain penalties.  After moving the unit leader, all models of the same unit can be placed within 6" of the unit leader.  Models that are placed within 6" of the unit leader, and within terrain, do not suffer movement penalties.  Adopting a formation such as single line, column, or double line sees the unit leader unable to move, all other models form on the unit leader.  Units moving into skirmish can move and adopt skirmish in the same action.

Shooting

M&T:  Shooting muskets is 0-4" point blank, 4-12" effective, 12-24" long range.  To-hit uses the units shooting characteristic, modified by shooting modifiers (terrain, range, etc.), and once hits are scored, the weapons firepower determines was is needed to "kill" the targets.  Kills trigger a reaction test (morale test).  Troops are marked with black powder markers and must spend an action to reload before being able to fire again.  Models are fired individually, so it is possible to have part of a unit reload and part of it firing in the same activation.

BAB:  Shooting muskets is 0-10" effective, 10-20" long range.  To hit is based on a D10 system (remember, 0's are zero's and not 10's).  To-hit is based on the terrain the target is in - open, soft, or hard cover - and modified by the usual circumstances.  Each hit cannot be saved and results in a casualty and subsequent morale test.

Melee

M&T:  Any unit can use a move action to engage one or more targets in melee.  Units must take the most direct path, maximize both attackers and defenders, and may use thrown weapons prior to engaging the target (throwing "tomahawks" and charging can be done in a single action).  Up to 4 models can engage a single model if there is room.  All attackers in base contact and all defenders in base contact roll attacks (need to score >= aggressiveness to score a hit).  Once hits are determined, the defence value for each unit is used to determine saves.  Side suffering the most casualties must take a reaction test.  So long as units remain engaged additional rounds of melee are fought until one side prevails.  Additional rounds of melee allow for figures from the engaged units to move/maximize/consolidate models between rounds of melee.

BAB:  A unit leader must be within 6" of an officer to declare a charge.  Attacker must resolve a morale card before being allowed to charge.  If passed and contact is made, defender must take an immediate morale test an apply the results.  If passed, attacker moves models into contact normally.  Up to two models can fight a single enemy.  Each engaged model is resolve individually.  2-on-1 melee is fought with a "free hack" from the second attacker, who needs to beat the score rolled by the defender on the "first" melee roll (all D10 based).  Higher score wins, lower is removed as a casualty.  Melee continues on ties.  Melee is fought on an "individual" model basis ... figures that become un-engaged can take other actions as normal, or re-engage other enemy models still in melee.

Morale

M&T:  Morale is represented by a reaction test.  The result needed to pass depends on the unit type (regular, irregular, indian, millitia, civilian, etc.).  Potential results are ok (test pased), recoil (unit makes a full move away from the enemy, remains facing enemy, activates as normal), flight (unit makes a full move away from enemy, faces away from enemy, unable to take actions for the rest of the turn, automatically recovers at the end of the turn), rout (the unit is removed from play).

BAB:  A generic morale deck is used to resolve morale tests.  Units required to take a morale test pull a morale card at the beginning of their next activation.  Potential effects are thwacks (unit leaders or officers are killed), or units test on a D10, subtracting either all or 1/2 of the remaining number of figures in the unit.  A 0 or less is a pass, anything positive is a failure.  If failed, the number failed by results in that many figures "skeedaddling" (essentially being removed from play).  For example, I roll a 9 and subtract my 7 remaining figures, the result is 2.  2 figures are removed as they "skeedaddle" away (there are also rules for these models running away ... with the potential to rally them later).  Random events are also resolved by the morale deck.

Extras

M&T:  A great selection of scenarios is included, side plots add a lot of flavor to the game (side objectives for an officer on each side), talents for officers allow customizing your leaders, and the many traits of units (options) allow unit customization.  Additional rules cover buildings, boats, weather, hidden movement, and more.

BAB:  The primary rule set is written for ACW, but appendix rules cover AWI and F&I.  Officers and leaders can be customized with special rules/attributes.  Additional rules cover forts, boats, and ambush.

Overall Results

For me, M&T is both more accurate to the period of the 18th century, and far better written (I'll note that BAB is older, being released in 1997, whereas M&T was released in 2012).  I do enjoy the games of BAB I play in, but given the choice I would always personally play M&T.  The Studio Tomahawk forum provides excellent support for M&T - from rules clarifications, FAQ, additional scenarios, battle reports, alternate lists, and more.  I have not found the same level of support in existence for BAB.

Winner = M&T.


100th Post - yes, this is my 100th post on my blog (and closing in on 100,000 page views, yay!) ... seems like I just started the blog last week but it has been 18 months since I started this blog.  I have to really thank all of you who read my ramblings and follow my blog, and GameTime --- thank you all very much!!

Tuesday, February 18, 2014

AWI Action - Brother Against Brother

Had a great "president's day" wargame this past Monday.  Matt, Tibor, Roy and I all got together and played an American War of Independence (AWI) game using the Brother Against Brother rules.  It was interesting to see how these rules compared against the Muskets & Tomahawks rules.  I had purchased the Brother Against Brother rules many long years ago and just had never played them - by the time I had my French and Indian War stuff all done I was already playing Muskets & Tomahawks.

Since I don't own any AWI miniatures, Matt was kind enough to bring his collection along - so I provided the terrain and Matt provided the armies for our engagement.  Matt is well known around the area for running spectacular looking AWI and ACW games at the various conventions using the Brother Against Brother rules - I had always managed to just miss his games --- so for me this was a game a long time in the coming (oh, the waiting!).

Tibor and I ran the British forces, that consisted of a healthy contingent of Hessian's (and even a native American unit).  Matt and Roy ran the "colonials" --- or rather the American forces.  Here is the breakdown of the forces:

British Order Of Battle

1st Group (1 x Mounted Officer)
  • 12 x Light Infantry, "Elite", "Skilled Shots"
  • 12 x Grenadiers, "Elite"
  • 3 x Light Artillery (1 gun being a howitzer)
2nd Group (1 x Mounted Officer)
  • 11 x Native Americans
3rd Group (1 x Mounted Officer)
  • 12 x Regulars
  • 12 x Regulars
4th Group (1 x Mounted Officer)
  • 12 x Hessian Regulars
  • 12 x Hessian Regulars
I ran groups one and two while Tibor ran groups three and four.

American Order Of Battle

1st Group (1 x Mounted Officer)
  • 12 x Regulars
  • 12 x Regulars
  • 12 x Provincials/Militia
  • 12 x Provincials/Militia
2nd Group (1 x Mounted Officer)
  • 12 x Regulars
  • 12 x Regulars
  • 12 x Provincials/Militia
  • 12 x Rangers, "Rangers", "Skilled Shots"
  • 3 x Heavy Artillery (1 gun being a howitzer)
Matt ran group one while Roy ran group two.

The objectives for both armies was to take a hold the "Terrytown Road" (the central round running down the majority of the table).  It was a bloody engagement that went back and forth at least three times ... but at the end of the day the British eventually secured the road and drove off the Americans.  Lots of pictures below ...

Looking down the deployment of the British forces.

Matt's Americans advance.

The British artillery battery.  It would engage the
American artillery in counter battery fire most of the
game - knocking out one of their guns and a few crew.

The "other" end of the American deployment.  The rangers
are the closest unit - they would destroy the native
American unit before being driven off.

Picture time - the overall table after initial deployment.

British deployment overall.

Que beer drinking and movement of lead ... dice to be
rolled in anger momentarily ...

The Grenadiers would loose half their number before gaining
the stone wall, but came back with a vengeance at the end
winning a melee against some provincials, then turning
to destroy a second unit before retiring for the day.

Overall American deployment.

A closer look at the advance through the fields.

The American artillery would kill several British regulars
and Hessian regulars throughout the engagement.

The American's fire the first shots ...

A daunting line to behold!

The British and Hessian's make to hold the road
and gain the stone wall for cover - unfortunately
the American artillery can see directly down the road.

The howitzer would support the British/Hessian
advance while the two guns to the right focused
on counter battery fire.

The British light infantry would decimate
this particular unit - but the remaining troops
eventually moved into the corn fields to
fire into the flanks of the British.

Smoke everywhere - the engagement is well at hand!

The British Grenadiers gain the road in a bloody melee!

What is that off in that corn field?

The game progressed at a nice pace ... overall I had
a very fun time with the rules.

The British desperately attempt to hold off the
American advance on the left of the picture.

A little later on - the British Grenadier finally had enough,
but not before taking two American units out of action,
with the British light infantry taking out another, the
situation looked much better.

The British volley fire takes it's toll on the American units.
A bloody melee would occur at the stone wall, but to no
avail for the Americans.

The British artillery did well this day ... running low
on ammunition it is time for tea!

The American left flank has collapsed - the British light
infantry stand to hold the road among
he piles of dead bodies.

British victory on both flanks!

Matt provided his *awesome* home made corn
field (much better than mine).  All the "leaves" are
rubber bands that have been cut up, painted, and
glued to the wire core stalks.  A spectacular effect
and they are very durable.

Well - that's it for now folks.  I hope you enjoyed the report.  Now back to my west front town project for Bolt Action --- and now that my table is back out and setup, I can finally film the Muskets & Tomahawks episode for GameTime.

Monday, February 3, 2014

WW2 West Front Town Project Update #3

Made some good progress over the weekend.  I've finished two blocks now, the hotel complex and the first of five two story building rows.  The finished two story row of buildings is pictured below.  I finished the backyards, put some odds and ends I had laying about (wagon wheels, ladders) and added some bushes.  Roofing tiles have all been added, and all the corners have been touched up with base paints.







The hotel is still waiting for the final roofing tiles, but I've finished everything else (base paint touch ups, added German propaganda posters to the building, etc.).  Pictures below (taken before I finished the two story block above).








Up next ... more buildings (or was that more lembas bread?) :-)

Friday, January 31, 2014

Very Handy Bolt Action Links

Hello all,

While going to look for yet another construction diagram on the Warlord site and decided I would just put all the useful links for Bolt Action in one place so I can stop attempting to search for them or root page-by-page through their Bolt Action articles (currently 31 pages, joy!).

So here you go, a set of links for construction diagrams and other handy articles:

LAST UPDATED: 2/26/2014

Construction Diagrams - German
Stug III Ausf. G 7.5cm Assault Gun
Stug III Ausf. G with Saukopt (Pig's Snout) Mantlet
Sturmhaubitze 42 10.5cm Assault Gun
Tiger I Ausf. E & Michael Wittmann
Sd.Kfz.222 Armoured Car
2cm Flakvierling 38
Waffen-SS Quad Flak
Kradschutzen Motorcycle and Sidecar (1939-1942)
Kradschutzen Motorcycle (1939-1942)
Early Production Tiger I
Sturmtiger
Sd.Kfz.234/2 Puma Armoured Car
Panzer II Ausf. A/B/C
Jagdpanther
Waffen-SS Nebelwerfer
Sd.Kfz.251/8 Ambulance
Sd.Kfz.251/16 Flammpanzerwagen
88mm FlaK 36
Fallschirmjager 2.8cm SPZB 41 Anti-Tank Gun
Howling Cow Schweres Wurfgerat 41 Rocket Launcher
Hetzer Tank Hunter

Construction Diagrams - British
QF 40mm Bofors AA Gun
Morris C9/B with 40mm Bofors
SAS Armoured Jeep (Northwest Europe)
SAS Jeep (Northwest Europe)
Airborne 75mm Pack Howitzer
Humber Scout Car
Sherman V Tank
Cromwell MkIV Cruiser Tank
25pdr Howitzer and Limber
Airborne 6pdr Anti-Tank Gun
6pdr Anti-Tank Gun
Universal Carrier

Construction Diagrams - Soviet
GAZ 98 Aerosan
ZIS-3 Divisional Gun
ZIS-2 Anti-Tank Gun

Construction Diagrams - USA
M2A1 105mm Howitzer
M8 Greyhound
M24 Chaffee Light Tank
Airborne 57mm Anti-Tank Gun
M1 57mm Anti-Tank Gun
M26 Pershing Heavy Tank

Construction Diagrams - Japan
Chi-Ha Type 97 Tank

Rules Updates/Articles
Updated: Bolt Action FAQ and Playsheet
Updated: Bolt Action FAQ and Tournament Pack
Scenario: Bunker Assault
Scenario: Iwo Jima Bunker Assault
Scenario: Alligator Creek, Guadalcanal
Rules: Amphibious Landings

Modelling & Painting Guides
Building the Pegasus Bridge Battleboard
Painting Guide: Cafe Gondree and Bunker
Painting Pegasus Bridge
Painting Waffen-SS Plane Tree Camouflage
Painting a Hanomag Part 1: Assembly
Painting a Hanomag Part 2: Spraying and Painting
Painting a Hanomag Part 3: Transfer and Finish
Painting Guide: Using the Bolt Action Spray Primers
Video: Painting Bolt Action Plastic Soviet Infantry
Video: Painting Bolt Action Plastic German Infantry
Speed Painting US Marine Corps Infantry
Painting USMC Camo Tutorial
Speed Painting Japanese Infantry

Hopefully this reference saves you some time and is helpful!

Thursday, January 30, 2014

WW2 West Front Town Project Update #2

A quick update on some progress ... nearing completion of the hotel complex.  I still need to use the base paints to patch up the 2nd and 3rd floors - and I'm waiting on my 4Ground order with the additional roofing tiles I need to finish the roof for the two main hotel buildings - and to drybrush/tuff the dirt around the sides.  The sidewalk, hedges, and static grass is down for the main part ... and the cookhouse and stable roofs are done with the roofing tiles.  Getting near completion on this particular item.  Pictures below.




Steady progress -- starting to come together!

Monday, January 27, 2014

German Checkpoint

Hello all,

Just a quicky - I finished up my German checkpoint over the weekend.  This will be used in my west front town setup I'm working on ... it is nice to have some small little parts like this to add a little flavor to the town and break up the monotony of the buildings and such.  Pictures below.

NOTE: Not speaking any German myself (clearly!) I just followed the lines that are burned into the wood ... which includes the two dots above the "A" in "HALT" --- I've since filled in the two dots and now it is properly German.  Thanks to those who pointed it out! :-)

Finished up the checkpoint.
The shack and guard rail is from 4Ground.
  The road part was done using the cobblestone
template and base render from 4Ground's
15mm line (made it wider for 28mm).

On the board, the road lines up with the modular
cobblestone roads I have - it just inserts between
two of the sections.

Sunday, January 26, 2014

Making Bocage For 28mm World War 2

Hello all,

Here is a little "how to" on making bocage for your 28mm WW2 wargames.  I'll be using this for my Bolt Action games and have several lengths in progress (12", 6", 4", some with gates, and corners).  The finished product looks like the pictures below ...

The finished product.  StuG III G shown
is from Warlord Games.

From another angle.

Here is what you'll need:

  • Woodland Scenics clump foliage (two colours - dark and light green).
  • Stone pebbles from your local pet store (for a fish tank).
  • 1/8th inch round balsa wood for "pegs" (frame for clump foliage).
  • Square/rectangle balsa wood for creating a frame for the clump foliage.
  • Drill with 1/8th inch bit.
  • Hot glue gun.
  • Super glue.
  • Black spray paint.
  • Paint and paint brushes for drybrushing the base and rocks.
  • Thick cardboard for the base (I use mapboard).
  • 1/2 round wood strip.
  • Wallboard joint compound (plaster).
  • Sand for basing.
  • White glue and super glue.
The first think I did is cut down a 12" strip of the 1/2 round wood strip and also a 1" wide by 12" strip of the mapboard to create the base.  I super glued the 1/2 round wood strip to the base.  Since it is wood, you don't have to worry about the cardboard base warping after painting and such.

Cut the cardboard base and 1/2 round wood strip.
The above is a straight 12" length.

Glue to two together using super glue.

A closer look, make sure there is a bit of a lip
either side of the wood strip.

Next I use the plaster to fill in the gap between the edge of the base and the 1/2 round wood strip.

I get the per-mixed plaster from my local hardware store.

Fill in the gap between the edge of the base and the
1/2 round wood strip on each side.

Do the next step before the plaster sets.

Next I use the stone pebbles to glue some rock clusters to the base.

Very inexpensive - get fish tank stones from your
local pet store.

Glue some rocks down to the base - the plaster should
not be dry yet - allowing you to push the rocks into
the plaster when necessary.

Sand the base - spread white glue and dip in the fine grain sand.

All sanded and dry.

Next is to build the frame that will be used to glue the clump foliage into the shape of a bush/wall.  Use the drill to drill holes into the center of the base every 3 inches.  Then cut the balsa wood round pegs to fit the holes - I put my total height from the bottom of the base to the top of the balsa peg at 1.5 inches.

Drill the holes for the balsa pegs.

Glue the pegs into the holes - height to the top of the
pegs is 1.5 inches.

Use the square/rectangle strips of balsa to build a top run for the frame.

Both sides get two strips of balsa to build out the
frame for the clump foliage.

Next it is ready for painting.  Spray paint the whole thing black, then finish the base and rocks.

Spray painted black - make sure to get the frame
completely black so it isn't seen through
the clump foliage.

I used GW Rhinox Hide, GW Steel Legion Drab, and
Foundry Base Sand 10C for the "dirt" and
Foundry Slate Grey A, B, and C for the rocks.

Painting finished.
Next it is time to use the hot glue gun to glue the clump foliage onto the frame.  As you get little gaps here and there you can use super glue to glue in bits to fill those holes -- better to use super glue and avoid the runs/spider webs that are inevitable with glue guns.  I also got back after I'm done with tweezers to remove any spider webs of hot (now dry/cold) glue that are visible.

Hot glue gun time - have extra glue sticks and lots
of clump foliage at the ready.  I start at one end,
do the top, then work my way around the sides,
then the very bottom - the gap between
the base and bottom of the frame.

The finished product - side A.

The finished product - side B.

The last thing that should be done is to spray the clump foliage with a 50/50 mix of water and white glue to prevent the foliage from falling off easily.  You could also spray it with clear coat, but that is less effective as it only coats the outside of the clump foliage --- the water/glue mix soaks into the foliage and is far more effective.

I'll need to trim the foliage at the ends a bit when I complete more sections so that they fit tightly together.

Hope this was useful!