Tuesday, February 24, 2015

Blog Improvement Poll Results

Thank you to each and every one of your who voted on the poll for "blog improvement" - I will do my best to bring you more of what you want to see.  There was a total of 78 votes cast - huzzah!

The question put forward was: "What would you like to see more of from my blog?"

Based on the total number of votes cast, here is how the answers break down:
  1. Keep doing what you're doing. (24 votes | 30.77%)
  2. Terrain and miniature building/painting "how to" posts. (17 votes | 21.79%)
  3. Pictures of completed terrain and miniatures. (15 votes | 19.23%)
  4. Convention and battle reports. (13 votes | 16.67%)
  5. Product reviews and recommendations. (9 votes | 11.54%)
The numbers are different if you look at the number of people who votes vs. the number of votes (since multiple selection was allowed).  Some more interesting numbers when you look at the same data based on "people" (32 people submitted one or more votes) as opposed to votes:
  1. Keep doing what you're doing. (75%)
  2. Terrain and miniature building/painting "how to" posts. (53%)
  3. Pictures of completed terrain and miniatures. (46%)
  4. Convention and battle reports. (40%)
  5. Product reviews and recommendations. (28%)
I'm happy to see that most are happy with what I've done to date.  I saw the trend for #2 and decided to start by posting the 7th Cavalry painting guide for Dead Man's Hand as a start.  I have another stone wall set from Architects of War I need to paint up so I figured I could do that as the next one.  For #3, I've got lots more pictures I need to take and post up of finished stuff - so stay tuned for that.

Should be an exciting year for gaming and I look forward to continuing the journey with you all!



Dead Man's Hand Quick References

Hello all,

Although the quick reference sheet (QRS) provided by Great Escape Games for Dead Man's Hand is ok, I felt I wanted/needed a more complete quick reference for the rules and gangs that included some of the easily overlooked rules of the game.  To that end I've built out a rules reference (two pages that can make one double-sided rules reference) and a gang reference (two pages as well).  The only gang not represented on my gang reference are the Citizens.  I've included official errata rules changes as appropriate (for example, I added the carbine to the weapons table).

Below you can see the images of the pages.  If you email me at sotek486@yahoo.com I'd be happy to send you the PDF or PPTX (I built these in Microsoft PowerPoint).  Space was a bit tight but I think I've got it done well enough to understand it ... it was challenging cramming it all in two pages.

UPDATE:  Great Escape Games has been so kind as to post these up on their site for me ... you can get the files from here (under DEAD MAN's HAND Quick Reference Sheets - the "complete" references).

Friday, February 20, 2015

Painting 7th Cavalry (Dead Man's Hand)

Hello all,

I've started painting my 7th Cavalry gang for Dead Man's Hand so I figured I would so a "step-by-step" painting guide to how I'm painting them.  I decided to use my phone to take the pictures ... I think it works (and is fast ... I'm already a slow painter as it is ...).

In this guide I'll be painting the guy pictured below on the right.  I painted the other guy earlier.

Let's paint some 7th cavalry!

The rest of the guide here will be in the captions of the photos.  I've included the specific paints I've used in the pictures themselves (as you'll see).

I started by painting the trousers light blue and the tunic
dark blue.  I then used a black wash on both the
trousers and the tunic.  Back view.

Front view.

I use the same base blue color to put the first
layer on the trousers. Front view.

Back view.

I use black to paint the stripes on the trousers.

Other side of the trousers.

Second layer of blue on the trousers.  Front view.

Back view.

Third layer of blue on the trousers.  Front view.

Back view.

Base yellow on the trouser stripes.

Other side stripe.

First highlight on the stripe.

Other side stripe.

Third layer of yellow on the stripes.

Other side stripe.

Base steel on the spurs.

I washed the spurs with black wash.

I highlight the spurs with silver/metal.

I use a black highlight color to highlight the shoes.
I don't like leaving things just plain black as it looks
unfinished to me.

First layer of Union blue on the tunic.  Front view.

Back view.

Second layer of blue on the tunic.  Front view.

Back view.

I use black to repaint the belts, holster and bugle.

I use my gold mix to paint the buttons, belt buckle
and put a base gold on the bugle.  Technically my
Foundry 36C "Shiny" is the highlight color for
the Foundry gold set.  I added a healthy amount
of silver into my gold highlight to get the pot of
paint in the picture that is not labeled.  Front view.

Back view.

I use a black wash on the bugle - not many details to fill
but it tones down the gold so I can highlight it.

I use my special gold highlight to highlight the bugle.

I paint a base yellow color on the tassels of the bugle.

First highlight on the bugle tassels.

Final highlight on the bugle tassels.

I use my black highlight to paint the straps and holster.

I paint the base colors on the knife handle (spearshaft)
and scabbard (drab)..

I use only a single highlight for the handle and scabbard,
using the "C" colors in the Foundry ranges.+

I paint the flesh a base color of GW Rhinox Hide (hands
and face), I use Foundry Spearshaft on the wood
of the carbine and GW Leadbelcher.on the metal parts
of the carbine.

I wash the carbine all over and hands with a black wash.

I use metal to highlight the carbine barrel and trigger.  I use
gold for a band around the barrel and use a first
highlight on the wood parts of the carbine.

I put the final highlight on the wood of the carbine.

I put the base yellow color on the scarf.

First highlight on the yellow scarf.

Final highlight on the yellow scarf.

First highlight on the flesh - face and hands.

Final highlight on the face and hands.

I use black and white to paint the eyes.  They look a
little strange because of how close the picture is
but "in person" it looks good.

I use a red brown to paint what little hair is visible
on the back of the head.

I use white glue and GW sand to sand the base.

I use GW Steel Legion Drab to base the entire base.

I use a sand highlight color to drybrush the base
drab color.  The crack you can see in the sand is
because I didn't let the white glue fully dry
before painting the base drab color --- but I don't mind
since I'll cover it with tufts.

I use yellow tufts on the base --- small and large sized
mixed together to hide the crack and edges of
the base that can been seen through the sand.  Normally
I use wall joint compound (pre-mixed drywall) to
fill around the thicker bases.

To finish the job I use the base drab paint to paint
the edges of the base to make it look cleaner.

The finished product - front view.

The finished product - back view.

I know it took a lot of pictures, but that is generally how I paint my own miniatures ... and when I look to contract painting out I use painters that can match or paint closely to my models.  I hope you've enjoyed looking through this!